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Gastropubs on Long Island: 4 good bets

Keeping with the establishment's Gaelic quality, the crisp,

Keeping with the establishment's Gaelic quality, the crisp, satisfying fish-and-chips main course is "Guinness battered" at J.A. Heneghan's Tavern in Point Lookout. Credit: Alessandro Vecchi

Gastropubs are pouring onto Long Island, with their combination of good brews and solid food. Here are four excellent bets.

THE BRASS RAIL, 107 Forest Ave., Locust Valley; 516-723-9103

This easily recommended gastropub includes a classic bar. The excellent food goes from fried oysters, deviled eggs and fish tacos to short-rib sliders, steak au poivre, and a shrimp-and-oyster po'boy.

LEFT COAST KITCHEN & COCKTAILS, 1810 Merrick Rd., Merrick; 516-868-5338

Lots of brews in bottles and cans go with the full-flavored, creative fare. Notable dishes: potato gnocchi a la cassoulet, with duck confit, duck sausage and butter beans, root beer-glazed pork chop, "more long than short rib," "hot 'n sour slurpy noodles" with prawns and pork belly.

PUBLIC HOUSE 49, 49 E. Main St., Patchogue; 631-569-2767

The eclectic menu of the downtown mainstay includes tuna tartare, pulled-pork nachos, a wedge salad with Maytag blue cheese, pork shoulder ragù with garganelli pasta, roast chicken with fingerling potatoes and cipollini, and the continental burger with pork belly and fried egg.

J. A. HENEGHAN'S TAVERN, 57 Lido Blvd., Point Lookout, 516-544-2777

The tavern is a busy, friendly spot, with very good beers on tap, TVs tuned to sports and an exposed-brick and stone look that warms up the bar. Chef Nicole Roarke's refined take on pub cuisine includes a first-class New England-style clam chowder, bracing "French five onion" soup, juicy Dijon mustard-crusted pork chop, "Jameson braised" short ribs and sweet potato-and-pancetta hash.


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