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Genting Palace, Resorts World: High-roller Chinese

Beijing duck, first course of crisp skin and

Beijing duck, first course of crisp skin and pancake, at Resorts World in South Ozone Park. (March 2012) Photo Credit: Newsday/Peter M. Gianotti

"The Big A" used to stand for Aqueduct racetrack.

Now: abalone.

Genting Palace is the polished Chinese restaurant upstairs at Resort World Casino, the booming newcomer at Aqueduct in Ozone Park. And it's no gamble.

The dining room, a chopstick away from Kennedy Airport,  is one of four major dining options at the casino of more than 4,500 slots plus electronic table games.

In addition  to Genting Palace, Resorts World houses a steakhouse, a popular and extensive buffet, and a food court with choices that include a noodle house, barbecue joint, burger stand, mini-Stage Deli, and a Wolfgang Puck Express. You can read about the new "racino" with its 50,000 visitors a day and its other eateries here.

But Genting Palace is the one that immediately gets your attention, from the tanks full of Dungeness crabs and lobsters to the lengthy selection of dim sum, traditional Chinese-American favorites, and more exotic fare.

The dining room itself has a streamlined look, with red the key color. There's friendly  table service and some jackpot food.

Taro-and-shredded chicken spring rolls and pan-fried beancurd-skin stuffed shrimp rolls are fine openers. Likewise, the dried scallop-and-pork potstickers.

Abalone, geoduck clam, coral shrimp, Maine lobster, oysters, sea-water and fresh-water fish and eel may be available among  the live seafood, all market-priced, in case you hit it big.

Beijing duck arrives in two courses: crisp skln with hoisin and scallion in pancakes followed by a stir-fry of duck meat with vegetables and noodles. Very good. Braised noodles with crabmeat and golden chives also is a satisfying choice, along with a peppery rendition of General Tso's chicken.

Appetizers are $5-$12; soups, $6 to $28; main dishes, up to $60.50; and whatever the residents of the tank require.

Genting Palace, Resorts World Casino, 110-00 Rockaway Blvd., Ozone Park; 1-888-888-8801.

Beijing duck, part one.

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