Naples Street Food in Franklin Square already makes some of Long Island’s best pizza. Now owner-pizzaiolo Gianluca Chiarolanza is making a bid for the best pasta. He's brought on board a partner, Gigi Sacchetti, and the Florence-born chef is in the kitchen making more than two dozen authentic Italian pasta dishes. He's also in the restaurant’s basement, making his own busiate, corzetti, lasagna, pappardelle, pici, strozzapreti, tonnarelli, tortelloni; the list goes on.
Sacchetti, who helmed the Manhattan restaurants La Cantina Toscana and La Cippolla Rossa in the early 2000s, made a splash on Long Island in 2017 when he headlined at Da Gigi in Lynbrook, and earned three stars from Newsday. A year later he headed south to Oceanside where he upped the pasta ante at Noble Kitchen & Cocktails. (Da Gigi was recently transformed into Abbracciamento.)
Naples Street Food suits him better than either restaurant. First, there’s the Italian-born Chiarolanza, who is as uncompromising about ingredients and traditional methods as he is. There’s no need to explain why the Pecorino Romano must be Fulvi brand, why pancetta (cured pork belly) can’t be used in place of guanciale (cured pig jowl). He's more at home in the super-casual pizzeria than in a fancy restaurant, and with only about 20 seats, he can do most of the cooking with his own two hands.
Sacchetti’s menu is an object lesson in regional Italian pastas: From Emlia Romagna, lasagna Bolognese; from Sicily, busiate Trapanese with tomato-almond pesto; from Sardinia, spaghetti alla bottarga; from Rome, spaghetti alla carbonara, bucatini all’Amatriciana and tonnarelli alla gricia; from Naples, paccheri al ragu Napoletano; from Liguria, trofie Genovese; from Umbria, strozzapreti alla Norcina. Again, the list goes on.
Of course Chiarolanza’s superb pizza Napoletana is also available, along with oven-baked panozzi sandwiches and starters such as panelle (chickpea fritters) and arancini (rice balls).
Naples Street Food (which opened a larger Oceanside location in May) plans to expand the original, Franklin Square space in 2020, at which point seating will more than double and wine and beer will be available.
Naples Street Food with Chef Gigi, 970 Hempstead Tpke., Franklin Square, 516-673-4630.