Like many Mexican specialties, guacamole dates back to the ancient Aztecs. The bright green sauce made of mashed avocado is traditionally prepared with a mortar and pestle, or molcajete, and is often boosted by the addition of tomatoes, onions, chili peppers, lime and/or cilantro.

At these local Mexican and Tex-Mex restaurants, the guacamole would do the Aztecs proud:

CHICHIMECAS, Farmingdale

At this bi-level Farmingdale spot, the guacamole is fueled by onions, tomatoes and just the right combination of lime, jalapeño and cilantro. On request, it can be prepared at the table in a molcajete. The menu calls it "heavenly" -- with justification.

DEL FUEGO, St. James

The guacamole at this rustic Tex-Mex cantina has plenty of kick, as well as a major comfort component. It also can be prepared with such unconventional additions as apple, pulled beef brisket or marinated shrimp.

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Superior guacamole takes the house fajitas to another level. The avocado sauce goes well, too, in the house burritos.