Long Island harbors a virtual sea of sushi chefs. So, how do you distinguish the best from the rest? Often, those who own their workplace have an added stake in making sure the fish they serve is impeccably fresh and cut with precision.
Here are three chef-owned sushi restaurants worth seeking out:
For more than two decades, Hisashi Manabe has been behind the sushi bar of his simple little Japanese restaurant, crafting maki rolls so light they seem bound by air. His chirashi is a flawless marine-sweet assortment of raw fish. 47 Atlantic Ave., Lynbrook, 516-599-1713
Affable chef-owner Jason Chen is a stickler for freshness and flavor. Check his specials board for such items as wild salmon, live scallops and uni, all beautifully presented. His "yellow submarine" maki roll is an eye-opening treat. 597 Montauk Hwy., Oakdale, 631-567-1688
Ken Ming, owner of this contemporary sushi spot, often brings a South American accent to creations like yellowtail seviche with ginger and soy. His "dynamite" roll, made with jalapeño, tuna, yellowtail, salmon and lemon-yuzu miso sauce, is explosive. 180 Rte. 25A, East Setauket, 631-751-2299, domosushiny.com