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Green Tasty CLOSED

THIS RESTAURANT CLOSED SUMMER 2010

It's 1980 all over again at this retro-new Chinese restaurant in Williston Park. And if the name Green Tasty doesn't make grammatical sense, the food speaks clearly enough. Here's what it says to me: "Relax and have another helping of lo mein."

Don't mind if I do.

Long after the meal has been cleared by the hospitable crew, I'm still hanging around, chatting and sipping tea. Nobody rushes anyone here. 

EVERGREEN

Let's hear it for wonton soup with firm but light dumplings in a full-bodied broth. And how about that old favorite, hot and sour, shot through with nuance and zing. More soothing (but not a bit boring) is the chicken and corn chowder. Shrimp dumplings (har kow) are light on the chopsticks and in the mouth. More good eating: tender strips of smoky beef threaded on wooden skewers.

Vegetable lo mein goes down easy. So does beef chow fun, featuring fat flat noodles. I'm glad to reacquaint myself with such an upstanding version of beef and broccoli, an old friend I haven't seen in awhile. Shrimp with black bean sauce has a nice salty edge. And I like the rich piquancy of eggplant with garlic sauce.

For a shot of culinary electricity, I turn to shredded beef Sichuan style. And diced chicken with hot pepper sauce.

Palate overstimulated? Do as I do and reach for the velvet jumbo shrimp. Despite some initial skepticism (it's one of those pale, white-looking numbers), it turns out to be a savory surprise.

NOT SO GREEN

I would like to see a roast pork noodle soup with al dente noodles and meaty broth but find myself faced with the polar opposite. Vegetable dumplings are decent but a yawn; dumplings in Sichuan sauce are downright leaden. Scallion pancakes ooze oil. And subgum wonton is a dark, stodgy hodgepodge.

MONEY SAVING TIPS

Massive portions at bargain prices (the costliest dish is $14.95) make for major doggy bags.

Green Tasty is located at 344 Hillside Ave., Williston Park, 516-248-3707, wretch.cc/blog/greentasty

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