Greenport beckons diners today as readily as it used to lure whalers in the 19th century. The New England-y hub on the North Fork has undergone a boomlet of restaurants, either new or remade, during this decade. And the lively village, where Colonists from Connecticut arrived in the 1600s, so far has resisted full-blown Hamptonization in style and price. Enjoy the harbor view and, with a little imagination, consider what it must have been like during its whaling, oystering and rumrunning eras.
So, take in the antique carousel in Mitchell Park and then make the rounds on Main Street and Front Street. When your appetite calls, here are some eateries to visit.
Kon Tiki (437 Main St.) takes its name from Thor Heyerdahl's raft, which in 1947 crossed the Pacific Ocean from South America to Polynesia. You'll take a more modest journey at this singular restaurant, which has popped up and taken residence in the very boutiquey Gallery Hotel, which hosts a modern gallery. The theme is Asian-fusion, delivered diverselywith flair. The choices include the now-obligatory tuna poke, fluke carpaccio, hoisin baby back ribs, spring rolls, dumplings, ramen, oyster shooters, seafood stew and kimchi fried rice crowned with a sunny-side-up egg. Dine in or take out. More info: 631-477-4000, galleryhotelny.com
Crab rikitiki dip, king crab, lemon zest and panko crumbs with togarashi wonton on the side at Kon Tiki in Greenport.
Industry Standard Bar
Industry Standard Bar (45 Front St.) is a citified downtown destination for good beer on draft, many cocktails and the food that goes with them. The vibe is urban and the pace isn't far behind. Industry Standard also boasts a look that would fit neatly into Kings County as well as Suffolk. The cooking ranges from a fisherman's stew to a bulgogi bowl, an "Italian hoagie" to pork belly ramen, Peconic Gold oysters to a chicken-and-red-bean burrito. You'll also be tempted by goat cheese croquettes, chicken wings, tacos and, yes, dim sum that features well-made dumplings. The "Cronut ice cream sandwich" is exactly that, a creation you'll find hard to resist. More info: 631-333-2500, industrystandardbar.com
Frito Misto, with fried calamari, cod, shrimp, and lemon aioli at Industry Standard Bar in Greenport.
Crazy Beans (2 Front St.) Crazy Beans occupies the corner where the Coronet luncheonette reigned for decades. The new resident keeps much of the ambience and offers sufficiently homey fare so anyone in need of a nostalgia chaser will be content. This is one of three Crazy Beans eateries. The others are in Stony Brook and Miller Place. Expect ample omelets, oatmeal, breakfast burritos, egg sandwiches, French toast, "cheesy" biscuits, corned beef hash and the like. Then, in the afternoon, segue to lunch wraps, Reuben and Cubano sandwiches and the lobster burger, which translates into a short-rib burger blend finished with lobster salad for a casual spin on surf and turf. More info: 631-333-2436, crazybeansrestaurant.com
Lobster hash is served under two sunny side up eggs with hash browns and slices of whole wheat toast at Crazy Beans in Greenport.
American Beech (300 Main St.): The gracious, beech-shaded structure that anchors Stirling Square (most recently Main, and before that, North Fork Oyster Co.) is now American Beech Restaurant & Inn. The dining room has been completely overhauled and five luxurious guest rooms have been installed on the building's second floor. The menu is new American. More info: 631-477-5939, americanbeech.com
Grilled tuna with scallion fried rice, five-minute egg, bok choy, avocado and sesame chili sauce are served at American Beech in Greenport.
Barba Bianca (102 Main St.): In 2017, Barba Bianca took over the Preston's Wharf structure that, for the prior 12 years, had been Scrimshaw. Proprietors Frank DeCarlo and Dulcinea Benson also own the Manhattan Italian restaurants Peasant and Bacaro. Barba Bianca ("white beard") spruced up the premises and serves local seafood whose preparations draw from the coastal traditions of Liguria, Puglia and Sardinia. More info: 631-333-2600, barbabiancany.com
Spaghetti granchio is served at Barba Bianca in Greenport.
Lucharitos (119 Main St.): Newly expanded, this rollicking taco and tequila bar is named for the colorful Mexican wrestlers known as luchadores. Their fearsome countenances adorn the walls while terrific tacos adorn the plates. Filled with meat, fish, shrimp or even mushrooms, they come cradled in soft-corn tortillas and topped with salsa verde, pickled radish, chopped onion and cilantro. New menu items include Cuban sandwiches and pork huaraches (thick, shoe-shaped tortillas). More info: 631-477-6666, lucharitos.com
Lucharitos serves traditional-style tacos -- pork, shrimp and carne asada -- with fresh cilantro, onion, radish and salsa verde on soft corn tortillas.
Bruce & Son
Bruce & Son (208 Main St.): Since it opened as Bruce's Cheese Emporium in 1974, this Main Street fixture has gradually transitioned from a specialty market to the daytime cafe Bruce & Son, whose chef is founder Bruce Bollman's son, Scott. In 2017, Scott and his wife, Kassata, did a gut renovation, jettisoning the last remnants of retail, and have re-established the business as a modern breakfast-brunch-lunch spot that uses as much local produce as possible. Dishes include avocado toast with dill, pecorino and poached eggs; steel-cut oatmeal with fruit and local bee pollen; lemon-ricotta pancakes; pressed sandwiches; short rib banh mi; and shrimp burgers. Soups, salads, sandwiches and egg dishes between $8 and $14. On Saturday nights, Bruce & Son hosts a restaurant pop-up helmed by North Fork chef and snail rancher Taylor Knap. Called PAWPAW, it features food that is "farmed, fished, and foraged on Long Island." The menu changes weekly. There are two seatings for the $60 prix fixe, at 5:30 and 8:30, and reservations are required. More info: 631-477-0023, bruceandsongreenport.com
Avocado toast on multigrain bread, purslane, pecorino, two poached eggs and salmon served at Bruce & Son in Greenport.
1943 Pizza Bar
1943 Pizza Bar (308D Main St.): Matt Michel started off as an itinerant pizzaiolo, driving his mobile "Rolling in Dough" wood-burning oven around Long Island. In 2014, he set up shop in Greenport's Stirling Square and named his pizzeria after the 1943 K-6 International Harvester truck that had once been his only place of business. (The truck is still available for catering.) This casual spot -- with tables both inside and out -- is a favorite of locals and tourists. Try the New Haven pizza, with its "curiously good" topping of buttery mashed potatoes. More info: 631-477-6984, rollingindoughpizza.com
A pizza with tomato and fresh mozzarella is served at 1943 Pizza Bar in Greenport.
Port (104 Third St., Greenport): This lively waterfront bar and restaurant in Greenport, owned by Bruce and Ali Bavaro (who also own Shelter Island's popular Salt) has welcomed Bruce Miller, formerly the chef at the nearby Halyard. Miller has updated the menu with some distinctive items. His standout avocado toast, good for brunch with a Bloody Mary, is made with whipped avocados. On the all-day menu, his vegetarian kung pao cauliflower poke is light and fresh, with tempura-battered cauliflower, edamame, jasmine rice and crispy nori. The showstopper at dinner is a very special lobster mac and cheese, made with a whole butter-poached lobster and served in the shell. At the outdoor bar, Miller serves snacks including deviled eggs and Korean chicken drummies. More info: 631-333-2501, portbarandgrill.com
Green Hill Kitchen
Green Hill Kitchen (48 Front St., Greenport): Father-and-son team Christoph and Robin Mueller purchased the former Loft on Front Street in Greenport in 2018, and quickly reopened it as Green Hill Kitchen, featuring live music in the two-story space. Co-owner Wolfgang Ban, an Austrian chef whose Manhattan restaurant Seasonal earned a Michelin star, crafted the farm-to-table menu. Soon afterward, Christoph purchased the Front Street buildings directly across the street. One houses Industry Standard (45 Front St., Greenport), which continues to operate there under his ownership. The other was home to Deep Water Bar and Grille. In that space, the Muellers and Ban have opened a new seafood restaurant, Anker (47 Front St., Greenport), with upstairs views of Greenport Harbor. Ban, who is the executive chef in charge of all three restaurant kitchens, describes Green Hill, where the menu has evolved, as a casual, meat-centric place in the style of a German beer hall. Housemade smoked sausages, steaks, roast chicken and burgers are served at rustic wood tables. Booths are comfortable for family and friends. A large bar encourages socializing. Anker will have lighter, more refined fare, dominated by seafood (and Bans' famous wiener schnitzel), in an airy and elegantly appointed dining room. Industry Standard, the "little brother or sister" to the larger restaurants, will be moving toward an eclectic shared plates menu as the season progresses, with dishes showcasing the North Fork's exemplary produce. More info: 631-477-4900, greenhillny.com
Ellen's on Front
Ellen's on Front (38 Front St., Greenport): Chef Jennie Werts, who continues to operate the high-end snack bar Jennie's at Drossos, has opened a full-service restaurant in downtown Greenport, where Salamander's used to operate. Partnering again with her brother, Andrew, who runs the business side of things, Werts serves up American comfort food with Asian and Latin twists. In addition to her famous sweet tea-brined fried chicken, the menu includes Peconic escargot with fermented chili butter, Korean fried duck wings with chowchow and Atlanta "stripper sauce" (Jennie says, "Google it!") and grilled sambal-marinated shrimp cocktail. Brother and sister were raised on the North Fork and Jennie, who trained at the French Culinary Institute in New York City, worked at Salamander's for several summers, years ago.
Greenport Creamery (142 Main St., Greenport): Greenport Creamery takes the place of Sandpiper Ice Cream on Main Street in Greenport. More than 20 ice cream, yogurt, Italian ices and nondairy ice cream flavors are on offer. All products are made in house, many incorporating local ingredients such as honey, apples and strawberries. A loyalty program, where every dollar spent earns you points toward a free ice cream, will be appreciated by repeat customers this summer. More info: 631-333-2818
Claudio's (111 Main St., Greenport): When this historic group of Greenport restaurants was purchased in 2018, new owner Ryan Sasson promised sensitive renovations and improvements, which have proceeded through the winter. Patrons can enjoy the renovated first and second floor of Claudio's Restaurant, which includes the restored 1920s bar downstairs, a wine cellar for private dinners, and a new upstairs bar and event space. Claudio's Clam Bar has become Claudio's Waterfront, which features new bar seating and a new stage for live music as well as a retractable pergola. The changes aren't only cosmetic. The wharf has been rebuilt with updated docks and bulkhead. The restaurant's new culinary program will emphasize local and seasonal produce along with North Fork-brewed beers, local spirits, and wines. More info: 631-477-0627, claudios.com
Olive Branch Restaurant & Café
Olive Branch Restaurant & Café (120 Front St.): In 2017, Michelle and Yusuf Alptekin took over three storefronts in the shopping center across Front Street from Mitchell Park for their ambitious eatery-market. The menu blends traditional Turkish recipes with French, Italian, Greek and American influences. There's hummus, baba ghanoush and stuffed grape leaves, but quinoa fills in for bulgur in an Anatolian soup, and kale stars in one of the tarators, a yogurt-based appetizer. In addition to grilled kebabs are Mediterranean chicken burritos and lamb Bourguignon. In fine weather, Olive Branch Café offers outdoor seating in the brick-paved plaza. Tables are shaded by giant umbrellas, and the charmingly mismatched dishes are served on huge brass trays. More info: 631-333-2444, olivebranchgreenport.com
Stirling Sake (477 Main St.): The gracious corner location that used to be Vines & Branches has been transformed into a stylish spot specializing in sake and sushi. As the name suggests, chef-owner Yuki Mori, who used to manage the Manhattan sake bar Decibel, is serious about rice wine. His list hopscotches through multiple styles and is dotted with unusual choices, such as an earthy, gently sweet sake from Hiroshima called Kamoizumi Kome Kome. Sushi chef Akio Kon presides over a sushi bar focusing on omakase (chef's choice), but before you dive into raw fish, don't overlook the izakaya-type snacks. Kaburamaki, or slivers of salmon, shiso and avocado wrapped in paper-thin turnip, is dotted with spicy miso sauce; if tempura cod is a special, grab it. Ramen, udon and donburi (rice bowls) round out the menu. More info: 631-477-6782, stirlingsake.com
Little Creek Oyster Farm & Market
Little Creek Oyster Farm & Market (37 Front St.): The North Fork is Long Island's U-pick capital; now it boasts the Island's first U-shuck. At Little Creek Oyster Farm & Market, you are supplied with a kit containing a few oyster knives and a knife-proof glove and offered instruction in the art of shucking oysters. Owners Ian Wile and Rosalie Rung also own Little Creek Oyster Farm, which is raising oysters in Hog Neck Bay in Southold. The market features these mollusks, as well as oysters and clams (and pickles, beer and wine) from other local producers. More info: 631-477-6992, littlecreekoysters.com
Aldo's (103-105 Front St.): When Aldo Maiorana started roasting beans in Greenport, many of Long Island's artisan roasters still weren't old enough to drink coffee. Since 1987, Aldo's has had numerous incarnations (even a sushi bar), and has moved back and forth across Front Street a few times. The hours are inconsistent, but here's what hasn't changed: Aldo's serves some of the best coffee and biscotti you'll ever have. More info: 631-477- 6300, aldos.com
First and South
First and South (100 South St.): The casual bar and grill emphasizes local produce and wines. Dine inside or outside on the wide porch and try the accurately described "really good burger" or South Street chowder (with smoked cod, applewood bacon, potatoes and clams), and don't pass up the fine, hand-cut fries with house-made ketchup (Heinz available on request). More info: 631-333-2200, firstandsouth.com
D'Latte Cafe (218 Main St.): At this Greenport institution, you'll find classic French pastry (try the croissants and Key lime tarts), fresh Italian gelato, good old American muffins and scones, well-executed sandwiches and soups. Grab a table outside or, if it's open, in a backroom that used to be the insurance office of one Joseph L. Townsend. It's now a combination salon-museum with old prints and maps depicting Greenport's history. More info: 631-477-4060
The Frisky Oyster
The Frisky Oyster (27 Front St.): When The Frisky Oyster opened in the summer of 2002, it spearheaded a restaurant boom that transformed Greenport from a sleepy fishing village into the North Fork's culinary hot spot. The hip decor (not a fish net or lobster trap in sight) and eclectic menu are as lively as ever. Chef-owner Robby Beaver's cooking makes lavish use of local produce and fish. Specialties include oysters "friskafella" with garlic-infused spinach, chipotle and Parmesan aioli, and a dessert billed as "the best key lime pie." More info: 631-477-4265, thefriskyoyster.com
Brix & Rye
Brix & Rye (308A Main St.): Talk about an underground location. In the basement of the building adjacent to 1943 Pizza Bar, Matt Michel and master bartender Evan Bucholz have created a convivial speakeasy specializing in craft beers and local wines, small-batch whiskeys, homemade mixers and live music. You can also order a pizza from upstairs. More info: 631-477-6985, brixandrye.com
Porto Bello (1410 Manhanset Ave.): A resident of Brewer Stirling Harbor Marina, Porto Bello offers water views (including outdoor seating options) and emphasizes seafood and Italian-American favorites. Selections range from fried calamari and steamed mussels to rigatoni Bolognese, chicken marsala and zuppa de pesce with shrimp, clams, mussels and calamari. More info: 631-477-1515, portobellonorthfork.com
Noah's (136 Front St.): One of Long Island's top seafood restaurants, Noah Schwartz's restaurant is both a neighborhood magnet and destination spot. The look is slightly industrial, very sleek and in fine weather the dining room spills onto the wide sidewalk of Greenport's main drag. Among recommended dishes: Long Island clam chowder, crab-stuffed deviled eggs (pictured), Tasmanian red crab tacos, warm lobster roll, and fish and chips with Atlantic cod and Greenport Harbor beer batter. More info: 631-477-6720, chefnoahs.com
Billy's by the Bay
Billy's by the Bay (2530 Manhanset Ave.): This casual spot prepares plenty of shellfish, from steamers and oysters Rockefeller to oyster tacos and lobsters up to 4 pounds. Lobster rolls, hot or cold, are available. And if you're on patrol for Cajun-spiced flounder, Billy's has it. More info: 631-477-8300, billysbythebayrestaurant.com