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Grill 454 in Commack: First bites

Cheesecake with whipped cream and strawberry topping served

Cheesecake with whipped cream and strawberry topping served on the table at Grill 454 in Commack. (Jan. 2012) Credit: Newsday/Peter Gianotti

Maybe this is going to be the year of the steakhouse in Suffolk.

But after the arrivals of the excellent J. Michaels Tuscan Steakhouse in Northport and the Vegas-style showstopper Insignia in Smithtown, Grill 454 seems almost modest.

The new eatery takes over a former Charlie Brown's location in a shopping-center stretch of Route 454. It's a sizable spot, with good service and, early on, respectable food.

Grill 454 adds to the steakhouse staples with appetizers that incude eggplant Parmigiana (good) and sesame-seared pork dumplings (better). But you'll be tempted to stick with the shellfish cocktails and salads. One of the appealing steaks is the bone-in sirloin covered with Gorgonzola cheese.

But purists will be able to pick the basic filet mignon, rib-eye, hanger and porterhouse for two or more, all unadorned. And there are several seafood and chicken alternatives for the dissenters.

The a la carte side dishes are led by tasty creamed spinach and hash browns; the desserts, by cheesecake.

Grill 454, 88 Veterans Memorial Hwy., Commack; 631-499-4454.

Cheesecake at Grill 454.

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