Maybe this is going to be the year of the steakhouse in Suffolk.
The new eatery takes over a former Charlie Brown's location in a shopping-center stretch of Route 454. It's a sizable spot, with good service and, early on, respectable food.
Grill 454 adds to the steakhouse staples with appetizers that incude eggplant Parmigiana (good) and sesame-seared pork dumplings (better). But you'll be tempted to stick with the shellfish cocktails and salads. One of the appealing steaks is the bone-in sirloin covered with Gorgonzola cheese.
But purists will be able to pick the basic filet mignon, rib-eye, hanger and porterhouse for two or more, all unadorned. And there are several seafood and chicken alternatives for the dissenters.
The a la carte side dishes are led by tasty creamed spinach and hash browns; the desserts, by cheesecake.
Grill 454, 88 Veterans Memorial Hwy., Commack; 631-499-4454.
Cheesecake at Grill 454.