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Grillfire in Syosset: First bites

Cedar-planked salmon with Chinese mustard and Brussels sprouts

Cedar-planked salmon with Chinese mustard and Brussels sprouts is a main course at Grillfire in Syosset in September 2014. Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick

The new, sharply focused Grillfire in Syosset differs from its namesakes in Merrick and Rockville Centre, in style and cost.

This one, a collaboration between George Korten of the George Martin Restaurant Group and Richard Cutler of Mim's Hospitality, clearly veers more upscale. Grillfire, yes, but by way of George Martin of Rockville Centre and Mim's of Roslyn Heights.

It's on the former site of a Mim's branch. But the place has been redesigned and refreshed. There's a popular bar with three TVs tuned to sports, as well as two dining areas in a style somewhere between haute prairie and sharp modern. No soft surfaces, very high decibels, often appealing food.

Try the very good appetizer of fresh burrata. paired witth crisp kale, marinated tomatoes and basil oil. Sample the fine cedar-planked salmon with Chinese mustard and "burnt" Brussels sprouts. Cut into the Cedar River Farms sliced flat iron steak, paired with sesame seed-crusted rare tuna for a spin on surf and turf.

You'll find staples from the other Grillfires, from "chili pop shrimp" to horseradish, bacon and Cheddar crusted meatloaf; baby back ribs to burgers. Just remember, it's not exactly the same.

And, early on, it's working pretty well.

Grillfire, 33 Berry Hill Rd., Syosset; 516-364-2144.