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Grillmark in Albertson: First bites

A combination of chicken and pork gyro is

A combination of chicken and pork gyro is served with quinoa at GrillMark in Albertson in October 2014. Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick

Grillmark, a sleek new counter-serve eatery, occupies the Albertson strip mall spot that last hosted Prime Burger and, before that, Deli on Rye. Here, the rule is healthy Mediterranean-style eating. Grilled skewered meat, poultry and fish – called “sticks” – share the menu with salads, side dishes and cold-press juices. On a recent visit, I found moderate prices and a level of satisfaction far beyond.

What I ordered was a platter with a mixture of house-made chicken and pork gyro ($10.50), each sliced from a spit, the juicy shards of meat imbued with an herbal, citrusy kick. On the side, I opted for the eatery's fluffy, subtly lemony quinoa, which was studded with cilantro and dried cranberries. Sweet potato fries, while the previously frozen kind, weren’t bad. My companion’s salmon kale salad ($12.50) featured moist, nicely grilled chunks of fish over a combination that included kale, lettuce, quinoa and avocado in a honey dill dressing that was only slightly sweet. Drawbacks were dinnerware of cardboard and plastic. Worth coping with.

Grillmark is at 1008 Willis Ave., Albertson, 516-621-9300.