When pieces of marinated meat are stacked on a vertical spit, roasted and then sliced off, great eating usually ensues. The Greeks call this dish "gyro."
While some places use commercially made gyro, others take the trouble to make it themselves. Find out why that extra effort is worth it at these four relatively new spots.
BOSPHORUS CAFE GRILL
At this mostly Turkish Port Washington newcomer, chef and co-owner Paul Cecen puts out a lamb-and-beef doner kebab, or gyro, both savory and satisfying. ($8 sandwich, $16.95 platter)
138 Shore Rd., Port Washington, 516-321-9999, bosphoruscafegrill.com
YEVMA AUTHENTIC GREEK CUISINE
Chef Peter Mesaris offers two kinds of gyro — one, made with beef and lamb, the other with chicken — at his stylish new Greek restaurant and market. ($7.95 sandwich, $16.95 platter)
2065 Hempstead Tpke., East Meadow, 516-280-2208, yevma.com
MAVI GRILL & DELI
Try the house-made gyro, or doner, at this charming Turkish spot in a residential section of Mount Sinai. It features a rotisserie-roasted mix of lamb and beef sliced off a spit and either stuffed into a pita or served as a dinner platter. ($8.95 sandwich, $15.95 platter)
749 Mount Sinai-Coram Rd., Mount Sinai, 631-509-4866, mavigrill.net
You may end up forswearing the commercially made gyro served at most Greek restaurants once you've had the house-made chicken and pork versions here. The meat is sliced off the spit in shards that ooze herbal-citrusy juices. Skewered pork pieces have a lovely char on the outside and are pink and juicy within. A real surprise is how tender and delectable chunks of white meat chicken turn out to be. ($6.50 wrap, $10.50 platter)