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45° Good Morning

H2O in Smithtown: Top-flight chef leaves

Michael Meehan, when he was executive chef of

Michael Meehan, when he was executive chef of H2O in Smithtown. Credit: Jim Lennon

Executive chef Michael Meehan has left H2O: Seafood Grill after a five-year tenure. The Smithtown fish mainstay, part of the Bohlsen Restaurant Group, is undergoing a renovation and expansion of its sushi bar and lounge, although the dining room remains open. Look for a relaunch with some new menu items in April. In the meantime, James McDevitt, the Bohlsens’ corporate executive chef, is supervising  the kitchen.

Meehan, 56, made his name as a top-flight chef in the early 1990s at Mill River Inn in Oyster Bay. He went on to run, among other restaurants, Tupelo Honey in Sea Cliff, Veritage in Rockville Centre and Clearwater in Massapequa. Over the course of a 25-year career he also did stints at Coyote Grill in Island Park, Lori in Southampton, Michael’s at the Boardwalk in Riverhead, and the short-lived Speranza Fine Italian Food studio in Woodbury. He rarely earned less than three stars from Newsday. (When he briefly took over the kitchen of Southold’s Seafood Barge in 2002, Peter Gianotti noted that Meehan’s business card should read “Have Whisk — Will Travel.”)

Meehan, who lives on the North Fork, has accepted a job as executive chef at Noyac Golf Club in Sag Harbor. Hope the members know how lucky they are.