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Hewlett: Mermaid's first splash

Ariel of the "Little Mermaid" and her friends

Ariel of the "Little Mermaid" and her friends will be major attraction in the new wing at Disney World. (Undated) Credit: Handout

Mermaid of Hewlett doesn't have quite the same ring as "Lawrence of Arabia" or "Clive of India." But it's putting in a heroic effort on Broadway.

The new eatery has a familiar menu, in a style that revives memories of "continental" cuisine. A little French, a little Italian, some seafood, few surprises. You've been there. But the service is very friendly and accommodating, and you'll feel very welcome.

They, in turn, should welcome a bread baker. Dreary, reheated slices make up the basket. They don't improve, even with a dip in the house's mild, pleasing pureed vegetable soup ($3).

A square of polenta capped with seafood, melted provolone, oyster mushrooms and brown sauce ($12) complicates things, but the polenta is good. Bruschetta and baked eggplant ($8 each), shrimp cocktail ($9) and mussels mariniere ($9) are alternatives. The grilled branzino ($23) leads the swimmers; a grilled  rib-eye ($28), the turf list. Cheesecake ($9) comes with strawberry sauce. 

Mermaid of Hewlett is at 1230 Broadway; 516-812-3920.

Ariel might approve.

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