The first incarnation of this Hicksville institution was established across the street in 1925. In 1964, it moved to its present location and, in 1974, Eva and Phillip Zouros bought it from the second owners. (Their adult son Harry now works with them.)

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The unassuming shop is a throwback to that pre-Baskin Robbins era, when luncheonettes -- most of them owned by Greek- or German-Americans -- made their own ice cream, sauces and syrups as well as candies and molded chocolates. At the Sweet Shop, they still do, and the Zouroses are equally conscientious about the savory menu items.

"Our sauerbraten is famous," says Eva. "Phillip makes the dumplings from scratch, and when we have it, I have a list of customers to call. We have another list for the chicken potpie."