38° Good Afternoon
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Hooked in Montauk and more Long Island restaurants to try this weekend

Fish tacos with grilled mahi-mahi in a flour

Fish tacos with grilled mahi-mahi in a flour tortilla are on the menu at Hooked in Montauk.

The crowds depart. The beach is pristine. You can land a table at almost any restaurant. Here are three to enjoy Montauk in autumn.

Hooked is very casual, with counter service and seven bright blue picnic tables outside. This informal eatery, which succeeded Red Hook Lobster Pound, is a locally owned, essential Montauk restaurant. with excellent, fairly price seafood, to eat-in or take-out. It's on a par if not better than numerous, well-known Long Island fish houses. Hooked will be open until Oct. 27. Recommended: spicy crab-and-corn chowder; New England-style clam chowder; lobster salad roll; whole steamed local lobster; fresh grilled tuna sandwich; fresh grilled swordfish sandwich; fish tacos made with mahi mahi; fish and chips; fried clam strips. Moderate.

Hooked, 34 S. Etna Ave., Montauk, 631-668-2111,

Inlet Seafood has been a big fish on the East End since it opened in 2006. It's owned by six commercial fishermen and is a standout that just gets better each year. It will close the weekend after Thanksgiving. Recommended: Montauk Pearl oysters on the half-shell; Parmesan-crusted fried calamari; clam chowder; shrimp cocktail; tempura cauliflower; Cajun fish tacos; fish and chips made with cod; fluke piccata; pan-seared sea scallops; tuna tartare; sushi rolls and nigirizushi platters; warm apple cobbler; pumpkin pie a la mode. Moderate to expensive.

Inlet Seafood, 541 E. Lake Dr., Montauk, 631-668-4272,

Scarpetta Beach, the exceptional oceanfront Italian restaurant at Gurney's Montauk Resort & Seawater Spa, is expected to go to winter hours in mid-October. Check in advance and enjoy the view and the fare. Recommended: creamy polenta with truffled mushrooms; crudo of yellowtail; spaghetti with tomato and basil; farro risotto with fall vegetables; lobster tagliatelle, with asparagus, tomato, basil, and bread crumbs; black cod with caramelized fennel and concentrated tomato; veal tenderloin with gnocchi, root vegetables, and glazed sweetbreads; espresso budino; limoncello semifreddo; twice-baked lemon cake with Meyer lemon sorbet; creme fraiche cheesecake; coconut panna cotta. Expensive.

Scarpetta Beach, 290 Old Montauk Hwy., 631-668-1771,