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Huntington Station: La Nonna's big "Z"

Fried calzone at La Nonna's Pizzeria in Huntington

Fried calzone at La Nonna's Pizzeria in Huntington Station. (October 2011) Credit: Newsday/Peter Gianotti

This picture is worth a thousand bites.

It's the fried calzone at La Nonna's, a modest pizzeria in Huntingon Station. Inside are ricotta and mozzarella; on top, a snowfall of powdered sugar. Consider it zeppole, steroidal edition.  And very good, too, all for $6.95.

You can order your calzone baked at La Nonna's, and nibble on the traditional, savory ham-and-cheese variety. But the fried one  takes the zeppole theme to the extreme: calzone with a capital "Z." It's a portable, year-round taste of street feasts. La Nonna's makes more standard-size zeppole, on the sweet side with a hint of cinnamon. But they can be mushy in the middle. Stick with the heroic fried calzone.

La Nonna's is a friendly 12-seater, with six more chairs at a couple of  tables outside. The very active kitchen prepares tasty soups, not all of Italian provenance. The butternut squash could star at a Thanksgiving table. Also in the running: New England clam, potato-bacon and split-pea. Yes, they have good minestrone.

The pizzas are fine, lincluding  the basic Neapolitan, Sicilian and, of course, Grandma pies. Plenty of "personal pizzas." I'd skip the "extra thin" crust productions, which are papery. Lots of pastas, Parmigianas, heros, wraps, panini.

La Nonna's Pizzeria, 566 E. Jericho Tpke., Huntington Station; 631-351-4700.

Fried calzone at La Nonna's.

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