Honu Kitchen & Cocktails has had at least three lives. The fourth is fun.
This downtown Huntington mainstay changed ownership earlier in the year. A new menu now is in place under chef Robert Flaherty, the former sous chef at Honu and a veteran of Blackwells in Wading River.
His winning dishes include a fine, autumnal roasted butternut squash soup, enriched with maple creme fraiche and spiced pecans; and a tender braised lamb shank paired with roasted root vegetables. Of course, Honu still sends out a very good burger, capped with Cheddar and applewood-smoked bacon.
The look of the place has been toned down and, accordingly, improved. For such a big space with a long and popular bar, the decor almost approaches subtlety.
Worth a visit.
Honu Kitchen & Cocktails, 363 New York Ave., Huntington; 631-421-6900.
Honu's main dining area.