There are plenty of reasons to dine at Dao. Sushi. Indian-style roti kanai. Vietnamese-spiced pork chop. Pad Thai. Mongolian beef. The restaurant is a travelogue.
But the most playful bit of travel involves time. Diners who mourned the closing of Hunam in Levittown a few years ago will find, tucked into a section headlined "Asian bistro" (whatever that means), an entry called "crispy Szechuan beef."
It's the closest to Hunam's classic, twice-fried beef that you're likely to find in Nassau or Suffolk.
Hunam's version was spicy, very crisp, with threads of carrot, presented with the thin pancakes usually sent out with Beijing duck. Dao's rendition comes minus the pancakes, cut a little thicker, tangled with carrots and celery. And, if you're having a "Vertigo" moment, ask that they try to recreate the original: order a few pancakes.
Otherwise, just enjoy the beef, the memory, and raise a glass to both restaurants.
Dao, 92 E. Main St., Huntington; 631-425-7788.
Dining at Dao.