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Hush Bistro in Farmingdale: First bites

Short rib, scallops and polenta combine for a

Short rib, scallops and polenta combine for a surf-and-turf appetizer at Hush Bistro in Farmingdale. Jan. 2015 Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti

The main event on Main Street in Farmingdale is Hush Bistro.

This new, sliver of a restaurant seats 26. Take yours either at the bar or shoulder-to-the-wall opposite it. Although the quarters are compact, chef Marc Anthony Bynum's cooking is big.

Bynum has retumed to his hometown after stellar stints at Tellers: An American Chophouse in Islip and Prime in Huntington, among others. He has twice won the Food Network challenge on "Chopped."

Here, he fashions some delectable dishes such as a surf-and-turf appetizer with short rib, scallops and polenta; Berkshire pork chop with sweet potato puree and apple chutney; and a serious lobster bisque.

It's pretty casual at lunch, with a menu dominated by burgers. The kimchee burger, made with chicken, the Korean condiment, Korean barbecue sauce, and a fried egg, delivers only modest heat. The beef burger boasts housemade bacon and shallot jam. Better than both: house-smoked, St. Louis-style ribs, with chipotle-seasoned barbecue sauce and ribbons of pickled watermelon rind.

Day or night, try Bynum's clever, rich "chocolate & chocolate" creation, with dark chocolate mousse, dehydrated chocolate mousse, riesling gelee, peanut brittle and sea salt.

Hush already is a destination, the peak of Main Street's growing restaurant row.

Hush Bistro, 291 Main St., Farmingdale; 516-293-4872.

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