Osteria Leana, a spiffy Italian restaurant with white-and-wood decor, an open kitchen and a communal table, has debuted in Oyster Bay.
It takes over the space, facing the parking lot at 76 South St., that formerly housed Oyster Bay Brewing Company (now decamped to larger quarters on Audrey Avenue).
Owned by restaurant consultant Peter Van Der Mije (and named for his grandmother), Osteria Leana’s menu is short and to the point, with five starters and four each of pastas, mains and sides. Highlights include roasted beets with baccala (salt cod) fritters with candied herbed nuts ($14) and Sicilian olives stuffed with pork and prosciutto or artichoke hearts ($12), house-made ravioli with Rottkamp Bros. Farm spinach and morel cream ($18), bucatini cacio e pepe ($13), local sole oreganata ($22), veal Milanese ($26) and roasted asparagus with prosciutto crisps ($12).
The restaurant’s chef de cuisine, Angela Dimino, is a graduate of the French Culinary Institute who went on to be an instructor and administrator at the school before starting her own consulting / private-chef business.
The Gold Coast town of Oyster Bay looks to be on the cusp of a culinary golden age. Osteria Leana opens on the heels of Autentico (which debuted in February and earned three stars from Newsday’s Peter M. Gianotti). Nikkei of Peru of Port Washington is planning a satellite location in the coming months, and the old Café Al Dente, at the corner of Audrey Avenue and Spring Street, is being transformed into something called The Blue Pearl.
Osteria Leana is at 76 South St., Oyster Bay, 516-584-6995, osterialeana.com