Salumeria Pomodoro has taken over the pond-side Roslyn location that was, until September, Bistro Citron. The new restaurant, a casual Italian, is owned by the same restaurant group, Reststar, Inc.
Chef John Kaunas has fashioned a likable and well-priced menu. Starters, around $10, include a grilled romaine salad with crispy chickpeas; fried artichokes with cucumber yogurt; pappa al pomodoro, the Tuscan tomato-bread soup that here is served in a bread bowl. Pastas, all less than $20, include paccheri al sugo di carne (giant rigatoni in meat sauce) and lasagnetti with burrata, wild mushrooms, ricotta and tomato sauce. Mains, $23 to $29, include grilled skirt steak with black truffle-parsnip puree; roast branzino fillet with prosciutto and roasted vegetables; salmon with mushroom farro and broccolini.
In Italy, a salumeria (pronounced sah-LOO-meh-ree-ah) is a store that specializes in cured pork products. Accordingly, Salumeria Pomodoro’s menu has a section devoted to “salumi e formaggi” with such cured meats as mortadella, sopressata, bresaola and prosciutti imported from three regions of Italy — Parma (in Emilia-Romagna), San Daniele (in Friuli-Venezia Giulia) and Tuscany — as well as Parmesan, pecorino and Piave Vecchio cheeses. Most are priced about $8 a serving.
The wine list features 13 wines by the glass, 24 by the bottle, and goes beyond the standard pinot grigio and Chianti with some truly interesting wines such as Coppo LaRocca Gavi (Piedmont), Puiatti Cur Traminer Aromatico (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) and Cantine Buglioni Ripasso (Veneto).
Salumeria Pomodoro is at 1362 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn, 516-403-4400, pomodororoslyn.com