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J.A. Heneghan's in Point Lookout: First bites

French five-onion soup is served at J.A. Heneghan's

French five-onion soup is served at J.A. Heneghan's Tavern, in Point Lookout, in February 2014. Credit: Newsday / Peter Gianotti

Between snowstorms, soups matter even more. There are two very good ones at J.A. Heneghan's Tavern in Point Lookout.

Chef Nicole Roarke prepares a fine "five onion" French onion soup, bracing and satisfying, with deeper flavors than usual. And her rich, New England-style clam chowder also is worth the visit.

There's plenty of pub-style fare here. But Roarke elevates it and just about everything else. The Dijon-mustard crusted pork chop, served wth colcannon, the Irish favorite of potatoes and cabbage, is excellent. Likewise, braised short ribs with saffron risotto.

This will be a satisfying stop when the weather warms, too.

J.A. Heneghan's Tavern, 51 Lido Blvd., Point Lookout; 516-544-2777.

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