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J. Michaels in Northport: First bites

Salmon and crab rolls at J. Michaels Tuscan

Salmon and crab rolls at J. Michaels Tuscan Steakhouse in Northport. (December, 2011) Photo Credit: Newsday/Peter Gianotti

Two of Long Island's most popular cuisines, Italian and steakhouse, come together big-time at J. Michaels. The full-flavored newcomer has transformed  the vintage house occupied for decades by La Capannina.

Now, you'll find first-class starters that range from lobster meatballs in marinara sauce to salmon rolls filled with colossal crabmeat and caramelized fennel; main courses from a juicy, thick New York strip steak to seared sashimi-grade tuna finished with mint relish, onion and  charred tomatoes, beefsteak of course.

Basically, have your wedge salad and radicchio-endive-frisee with pine nuts, too.

Credit chefs Vincent P. Michaels and Ron Gelish, steakhouse veterans who know how to expand the repertoire,for turning J. Michaels Tuscan Steakhouse into a destination for all appetites. They play of f a new world-old world theme and succeed in both. The eatery also is marked by attentive, accommodating, friendly service.

You'll be tempted to fill up and not have much room left for dessert. That would be a mistake. The cheesecake is great. And those chocolate truffles served at meal's end rival it.

Figure $50 to $100 per contented person.

J. Michaels Tuscan Steakhouse, 688 Fort Salonga Rd., Northport; 631-651-9419.

Salmon rolls with crabmeat, caramelized fennel, shaved poached asparagus tips.

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