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Jamesport: Luce & Hawkins opens

Luce & Hawkins is a new restaurant at

Luce & Hawkins is a new restaurant at the Jedediah Hawkins Inn in Jamesport. (May 16, 2010) Credit: Gordon M. Grant

The restaurant at the Jedediah Hawkins Inn has seen a lot of changes since it opened for business in June 2006. Founding chef Tom Schaudel and his chef de cuisine, Michael Ross, left in late 2008. After a brief hiatus, Matt Murphy picked up the reins in February 2009. By September, Murphy had given way to Steven Lewis, who was in charge until the facility closed for a complete overhaul this past winter.

Enter Keith Luce, a North Fork native and veteran of the White House, the Little Nell in Aspen, PlumpJack Café in San Francisco and, most recently, the Herbfarm in Woodinville, Wash. In May, Luce opened Luce’s Landing, an informal eatery located in the inn’s glassed-in porch. Last week, Luce & Hawkins opened in the refurbished main dining room.

At Luce & Hawkins, the tasting menu’s the thing: five courses for $75 (plus $50 for wine pairings). The selections will change often, according to season and whim, but here’s the current lineup. (All items can also be ordered a la carte; the most expensive is the steak, $28. Cheese course also available.)

First course
Miso soup with steamed egg custard, local oyster, native caviar, chive
Blond morel with asparagus, tagliatelle, tarragon

Second course
Spring-onion grits with soft-shell crab, charred tomato, caper-brown butter, lovage
Sweet pea with black bass, fregola, mint

Third course
Pastured chicken with carrot, pork sausage, fennel
Duckling two ways with greens, potato, rhubarb, rosemary

Fourth course
Pork with turnip, cherries, shiso
Tenderloin steak with radish, leek, soy caramel, lemon thyme

Fifth course
Strawberries with saffron risotto, crème fraîche, pineapple sauce
Yogurt panna cotta with bay-scented granola, rhubarb soup, rose geranium
Doughnuts with milk chocolate, ice cream, cinnamon basil
Cookies with espresso gelato, chocolate sorbet, anise hyssop

In addition to an extensive wine list, both restaurants offer six wines on tap—that is, directly from the wineries' kegs—including a "Luce & Hawkins Blend" chardonnay from Paumanok.

Luce & Hawkins is at 400 South Jamesport Ave., Jamesport, 631-722-2900.

Luce & Hawkins is a new restaurant at the Jedediah Hawkins Inn in Jamesport. (May 16, 2010) 

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