Earlier this week I managed to get to Grana, Jamesport’s new wood-fired pizzeria, before the dough ran out. The last time I’d visited, proprietor-pizzaiolo Dave Plath had his Tuscan-built oven in place, but hadn’t fired it up yet. Now he’s been open for three weeks, and his greatest challenge has been keeping up with demand.
The man knows his dough: We got two pies, and the crust had a complex, wheaty flavor and the kind of tender-crisp crumb that some pizzerias never get right. The toppings, however, didn’t evince the same harmony. Our Margherita pie featured good tomatoes and good mozzarella, but there was just too much of both weighing down the crust. Let the dough shine, I thought.
The clam pie was more problematic. I’m not a fan of cheese with clams, but I was willing to trust that the menu’s promised Parmesan and Pecorino Romano were going to be sparingly sprinkled over the proceedings. No dice. The melted cheese matrix almost obscured the flavor of the clams, and it became a pizza about everything and nothing.
There are plenty of more pies to try at Grana — I’m taken with the sound of the Rosa Bianca, with red onion, Parmesan, potatoes and rosemary — not to mention salad and dessert. Wine and beer are arriving soon, and the room is very comfortable. I’ll be heading back
Grana Wood-Fired Pizza Napolitano is at 1556 Main Rd., Jamesport, 631-779-2844.