Chris Pappademas makes it an even dozen: He’s the 12th chef to lead the kitchen at Jamesport’s Jedediah Hawkins Inn since it opened in 2006. Kasia Dabrowska, chef No. 11, left in December after less than a year.
When the lovingly restored Victorian mansion debuted in 2006, the kitchen was helmed by noted Long Island chef Tom Schaudel. But Schaudel left in 2009 and, since then, the kitchen has had a revolving door.
Pappademas, a Massachusetts native and graduate of the culinary program at Johnson & Wales in Rhode Island, was previously the executive chef at The Farm Table Restaurant in Bernardston, and, before that, sous chef and pastry chef at Bistro Les Gras in Northampton (both in Massachusetts).
“I’m focusing on raising the quality of the food. I want to create a place where everyone is preaching the same gospel and where we can achieve a level of excellence and quality that creates return customers,” Pappademas said.
All of Jedediah’s chefs have cooked from the New American playbook, making use of local products — Crescent Farms duck, North Fork produce in season — whenever possible. Diners have their choice of a formal dining room, a casual glassed-in patio and, in warm weather, outdoor tables that look out on the property’s 22 acres of rural idyll.
Lia Polites, one of the inn’s founding partners, has been the principal owner since 2010.
For those of you keeping score, Pappademas’ predecessors are Dabrowska, Stephen Smrcina, Kyle Strong Romeo, Craig Atwood, Rich Kanowsky, Lia Fallon, Alex Algieri, Keith Luce, Steven Lewis, Matt Murphy and Schaudel.
Jedediah Hawkins Inn is at 400 S. Jamesport Ave., Jamesport; 631-722-2900, jedediahhawkinsinn.com