Spring, finally. Time for the fresh, the green, the bright flavors of the season. Here are three restaurants where you'll find tastes to boost your appetite.
Jonathan's Ristorante in Huntington is one of the town's dependably fine Italian restaurants. Recommended: tagliatelle pasta with morels, asparagus, leek, and bechamel sauce; seared sea scallops with celery root puree and spinach; salad of beet, pomegranate, walnuts, and robiola cheese; potato-leek soup; tuna tartare with avocado salad; fritto misto of squid, shrimp, and zucchini; grilled sirloin steak with peppercorn sauce. Moderate to expensive.
Jonathan's Ristorante, 15 Wall St., Huntington, 631-549-0055, jonathansristorante.com
The Plaza Cafe in Southampton excels with seafood - and everything else. Springtime is expecially rich. Recommended: baby asparagus topped with lobster-and-morel ragout; pan-seared local squid with hummus, piquillo peppers, olives, preserved Meyer lemon; steamed red snapper with ginger-lemongrass broth; grilled local skate wing; local sea scallop ceviche; smoked salmon napoleon. Expensive.
The Plaza Cafe, 61 Hill St., Southampton, 631-283-9323, plazacaferestaurant.com
SriPraPhai in Williston Park is the suburban offspring of the Woodside classic. The food is just as inviting, especially if you like spicy Thai fare. Recommended: papaya salad with dry shrimp and peanuts; beet salad with chili, mint, onion, and lime juice; chicken curry puffs; drunken noodles with chili and basil; fried soft-shell crab with chili and basil; pad Thai noodles; shrimp cake; spring roll; marinated and fried pork strips; chicken satay. Moderate.
SriPraPhai, 280 Hillside Ave., Williston Park, 516-280-3779, sripraphai.com