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Kaji in Garden City: First bites

Spicy tuna dumplings are served at Kaji in

Spicy tuna dumplings are served at Kaji in Garden City. (Dec. 2013) Credit: Newsday Peter Gianotti

Kaji is the newest addition to Franklin Avenue's streets of sushi. And it's very good.

The bright, sleek, styish spot also takes you on an east-west side-trip. So, if you're not entirely devoted to uncooked fish, you'll eat well, too.

Two essential appetizers: duck spring maki, rolls that are shaped like cannoli and taste like Beijing duck; and crunchy, spicy tuna gyoza, atop housemade guacamole and finished with chile sauce.

Try the traditional sushi, whether fatty tuna or live scallop, and consider the colorful, tasty sushi rolls. Dissenters will be just as happy with sesame-crusted tuna steak and grilled duck with avocado.

Kaji, 935 Franklin Ave., Garden City; 516-500-9510/11.

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