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Kashi in Syosset: First bites

A toro, or fatty tuna, tasting is among

A toro, or fatty tuna, tasting is among the appetizers at Kashi in Syosset. Sept. 2014 Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti

Kashi Sushi Lounge in Syosset is the third Kashi to open on Long Island, and it's the showiest yet.

Maybe the crystal chandeliers do it, long and shimmering from the two-story ceiling. Or it could be the waterfall cascading down an artfully marine wall behind the sushi bar. Perhaps it's the food, too.

This glittery Kashi is serious about a certain style. But the Japanese, Asian-fusion, East-West  establishment also has substance to offer. Most of the fare is very good, whether cooked or raw.

Lemongrass hot-and-sour soup actually is subtle, with shellfish and finfish in a refined broth far removed from the usual medicinal mess. Shrimp tempura: crisp and greaseless. There's fine salmon teriyaki.

And the traditional sushi and sashimi are excellent. But the house's ornate rolls and overorchestrated dishes may turn you into a purist.

The toro tasting, which looks terrific, gives lush fatty tuna the consistency of baby food, and overwhelms the threesome with a wasabi reduction, dry ginger yuzu, plus roe and a quail egg. A too-sweet Kobe beef roll with fried onion, asparagus, jalapeno, cucumber, wasabi and ground meat, just implodes.

Restraint isn't a Kashi hallmark, but periodically it would help. Meantime, enjoy the highlights, the fine service and the friendly approach.

Kashi also is at 12 Elm St., Huntington, 631-923-1940; and 222 Sunrise Hwy., Rockville Centre, 516-442-7600.

Kashi Sushi Lounge, 343 Jericho Tpke., Syosset; 516-864-0900.