I don't remember the last time I had jerk chicken this good. (Wait — I do — it was, in fact, at the former Island Choice, a takeout in Wheatley Heights that's been gone for years).
But now, along comes Kevin Falloon, who, three weeks ago, opened Kev’s Caribbean Kitchen, serving up the kind of jerk chicken I yearn to eat this very moment. Falloon, who hails from Jamaica, grills the chicken using a “secret” combination of jerk spices. The result is rife with smoky nuances. I'd go so far as to call it haunting. The rice and peas and steamed cabbage and carrots served alongside are first-rate, too.
Kev’s is a little place that does a big takeout business. There's seating for 16 in a space decorated with a mural of blue skies and palm trees. The menu (which lists several breakfast dishes) features such Jamaican classics as ackee with salt fish and goat curry. Counter service is friendly and accommodating.