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Kurofune in Commack: First bites

"Jalapeno tuna" is a fired-up, special roll at Kurofune in Commack. December 2014 Photo Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti

Kurofune is experiencing something rarely seen recently: a full dining room.

The veteran Japanese restaurant is under new management, as countless signs outside advise. Inside, the once-genteel spot is looking spiffier, too. More important, the food has improved.

You'll find all the suburban standbys. But there are a few surprises, too. The "jalapeno tuna" roll does pack some heat and is pretty good. Seaweed salad has the right crunch. And the rainbow roll is colorful enough, and refreshing. The nigirizushi, with uncooked fish atop ovals of vinegared rice, also is dependable.

If you haven't visited Kurofune in the last decade or so, it's worth stopping by.

Kurofune, 77 Commack Rd., Commack; 631-499-0400.

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