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Kyma in Roslyn: First bites

Grilled octopus is an appetizer at Kyma in

Grilled octopus is an appetizer at Kyma in Roslyn. Credit: Newsday/Peter Gianotti

The wave of Greek restaurants on Long Island crests in Roslyn. The newest to reach shore: Kyma.

In hues of sand and sea, plus whitewashed floors and the bright white of so many Santorini postcards, Kyma immediately attracts you. It opened on the former site of the equally handsome Trata Estiatorio, which dazzled diners with its own appointments and especially the cooking of Luis Falcon.

Kyma chef Chris Kletsides and operating partner Reno Christou are veterans of nearby Limani, the exceedingly opulent Greek establishment on Northern Boulevard.

Their current  foray into isle cuisine keeps faithfully to the theme, with grilled whole fish the notable main course. Try the fine tsipoura, or royal dorado. Grilled octopus, finished with onions, capers, olive oil and red-wine vinegar, is an outstanding opener. And Greek yogurt is an ideal finale.

Kyma gets pricey in a hurry, though not as swiftly as Limani continues to do. It fits neatly into the local trifecta that also takes in the much-praised, more moderate MP Taverna. Having this trio in the same could prompt a collective toast from locals. Maybe “Ya mas!" -- to our health.

Kyma, 1446 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn; 516-621-3700,

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