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La Pala in Glen Cove: First bites

Paccheri pasta with mozzarella and snippets of salami

Paccheri pasta with mozzarella and snippets of salami arrives in vodka sauce at La Pala in Glen Cove. January 2015 Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti

You'll have to look carefully for La Pala. It has a Glen Street address, but the casual Italian restaurant and pizzeria is situated behind Covac Vacuum.

The immediately popular newcomer takes its name from the paddle used to insert and retrieve pizzas from the oven. The tool gets a lot of work here.

So, try one of the “pizze,” four-slice pies that come out blistered from the wood-burning oven. They also make larger New York-style pizzas, from Margherita, Sicilian, Grandma, and white to, yes, the Buffalo chicken variety.

And enjoy cheese-stuffed paccheri pasta, which will remind you of oversized rigatoni. The paccheri, topped with snippets of crisp salami, are in a lush vodka sauce. The house's grilled octopus is recommended, too.

You'll be advised that a specialty, panuozzo, or a hot Neapolitan sandwich, is available only for lunch.

La Pala, 246 Glen St., Glen Cove; 516-399-2255.