La Piccola Liguria's written menu is secondary to its waiters' oral recitation of the day's dozens of specials. (I'd also advise a glance at the display of antipasti you pass on your way to your table.) True to its Ligurian heritage, the kitchen focuses on fish. Excellent recent appetizers included grilled sardines on a bed of watercress, a salad of smoked trout and Boston lettuce, a tender and piquant lobster fra diavolo. I only wish the pesto (Liguria's signature sauce) had been less creamy and more basil-y. La Piccola Liguria faces west onto Manhasset Bay and the setting sun's soft light brings an added warmth to the verdant dining room.
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