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Landshark in Freeport: First bites

Palmyra Atoll, Pacific: A blacktip reef shark in

Palmyra Atoll, Pacific: A blacktip reef shark in the waters off the atoll. Credit: L.A. Times

Landshark is inspired by the lager of the Margaritaville Brewing Co. in Florida. Its decor includes a surfboard ad — with a bite taken out.

Da-dum .?.?. da-dum .?.?. dadum-dadum-dadum .?.?.

And. yes,  the second “a” in Landshark is shaped like a fin. The brewer sponsors events with the theme, “Let the fin begin.“

So, you don't exactly go to Landshark expecting subtleties and four-star cooking. You don't get them, either. But what's on the table often is good in a summery way. That's reason enough to raise a bottle to the new joint on the Nautical Mile, a casual spot reachable by land or sea.

Try the lobster roll and the sweet-spicy calamari dish dubbed Sichuan; nibble on the fin-shaped chips and the house-made guacamole. Maybe steamed mussels, too. Or the grilled swordfish.

No dish is named for Quint, Spielberg or Margaritaville. The beer is refreshing on a humid night. The eatery also operates the tiki bar diagonally across the street.

Landshark, 42 Woodcleft Ave., Freeport; 516-868-3332.

Happy hour under water

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