At Joseph Bonacore’s reincarnation of the old Lawson Pub in Oceanside, nostalgia and modernity meet on a menu dominated by revved-up comfort classics. On a recent visit to the spacious gastropub, Bonacore’s kitchen was really cooking.
Delectable “little piggies” (pastry-wrapped wieners, $6.95) came with a trio of dipping sauces. Bonacore won me over again with his opulent pig’s “butt” (the menu uses another word) sandwich featuring roasted pork butt with muenster cheese and house-made duck sauce on toasted garlic bread. The “angry” home fries accompanying, though, could have been hotter – in both senses of the word.
Loved the “mini” indulgences for dessert – especially the nutella panna cotta, one of three little treats served on ceramic spoons ($2.95).
Big bonus: An imaginative wine list priced at $20 a bottle.
Lawson Pub is at 3110 Lawson Blvd., Oceanside, 516-307-8753.
Above: The bar at Lawson Pub