In today’s New York Post, restaurant critic Steve Cuozzo pans Joanne, the new Manhattan restaurant owned by Lady Gaga’s parents. In the process of taking down the "clueless" service and chef Art Smith’s cooking (the worst calamari "in a lifetime of squid-mongering," “unspeakably fatty” osso bucco), Cuozzo launches a salvo at Long Island, observing that Joanne's “one-note orecchiette with shellfish recalled the flaccid pasta commonly doled out along Long Island’s Jericho Turnpike — or at 35,000 feet.”
It’s true that Jericho is lined with its fair share of mediocre Italian restaurants, but even the worst (and I’ve probably eaten there) does a better job than the airlines. But there’s also a lot of good pasta to be had along Route 25. We’d direct Mr. Cuozzo to Arturo’s in Floral Park, Umberto’s in New Hyde Park, Piccolo's in Mineola (where they make their own pasta) and Piccolo Mondo in Huntington.