The calendar calls for the lighter side of Italian cooking. Here are three restaurants that know it well.

DODICI, 12 N. Park Ave., Rockville Centre

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This downtown mainstay sends out satisfying carpaccio, beet-and-goat-cheese salad; a grilled eggplant-mozzarella-tomato pizzette and another with spinach, speck and fontina; cannelloni in meat sauce; orecchiette with sausage, broccoli raab and olives; and chicken scarpariello.

SOTTO SOPRA, 231 Main St., Amagansett

Very Hamptonian and pretty good, too, Sotto Sopra is a stylish little place. Try the pizzas, pastas, finfish. Linguine with clams and spaghettini with shrimp in a modestly spicy sauce, the Margherita and "picante" pizzas, and oven-roasted swordfish are tasty choices.

VERACE, 599 Main St., Islip

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Dine alfresco, weather permitting, and enjoy Verace's cheeses and salumi; sweet Gorgonzola, mozzarella and pear pizza; focaccia with rosemary and sea salt; gnocchi in Taleggio cheese sauce; maltagliati pasta Bolognese; shrimp fra diavolo; and, at lunch, the four-cheese panino.