Michael Ginor's Lola, a star since it opened in 2009, has refined its approach over the years. The newest reason to eat there: tapas.
These aren't Barcelona classics, but Ginor's vivid variations on the theme. They're available Tuesday and Sunday nights.
Standouts include Thai-spice flavored cod on soft tortillas, for a lively spin on fish tacos; a delicious Beijing duck slider on a Korean milk bun; and a playful, satisfying riff on the lobster roll.
Bigger plates also are served. Sample the applewood-smoked barbecued short ribs, with onion rings, slaw and crumbled cornbread; and the confit or orange-glazed duck leg, with creamy polenta and red cabbage.
The pomegranate sundae and the white-peach sorbet are among the obligatory sweets.
Lola also offers an eclectic take on Sunday brunch, with dishes such as duck hash with piquillo peppers and a sunny-side egg; eggs Benedict with smoked duck breast, lobster or foie gras; and malawach and eggs, layered Yemenite dough with eggs and tomato concasse.
Lola, 113A Middle Neck Rd., Great Neck; 516-466-5666.
Photo: Dining at Lola.