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Long Island restaurants: New reviews

Smoked pork belly served with a bourbon-maple bean

Smoked pork belly served with a bourbon-maple bean ragout, squash and corn bread is an entree at Brewology in Speonk. Credit: Doug Young

In this week’s Newsday, Peter M. Gianotti reviews Brewology, the Speonk gastropub whose kitchen is run by Newsday All-Star chef Lia Fallon. “It looks terrific,” he writes, "full of reclaimed wood and recycled metal, exposed brick and subway-style tile” and the bar boasts 24 taps. “Fallon's fare generally complements the brews,” though its execution presents more of a challenge to the chef  “known for her refined cooking at the now-closed Amarelle in Wading River, The Riverhead Project and Jedediah Hawkins Inn in Jamesport.”

Joan Reminick visits St. James’ Azafrán, “both the name of this simply appointed Colombian newcomer and also the Spanish word for saffron. The condiment plays a key role in the marinade used in the house specialty: rotisserie-roasted chicken.” That chicken is an unqualified success; the rest of the menu is uneven.