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Long Island restaurants: New reviews

Chef-owner Billy Sansone at work in the kitchen

Chef-owner Billy Sansone at work in the kitchen at Cafe Testarossa in Syosset. Credit: Jeremy Bales

In this week’s Newsday, Peter M. Gianotti awards three stars to Cafe Testarossa, a Syosset mainstay since 1988, “when the establishment opened with a blazing red image of the namesake Ferrari nearly the length of the dining room.” These days, he writes, “the renovated restaurant's decor is more subdued, with neutral hues and soothing artwork. But chef-owner Billy Sansone's meticulous cooking, from crudo to meatballs, is humming, with heightened flavor and refined style. The ride has never been better.”

Joan Reminick reviews Green Tea Restaurant in Stony Brook, a Chinese restaurant that will “resonate with anyone who values authenticity in a cuisine that's been subject to much Americanization.” Menu highlights include fisherman-style fish, walnut shrimp and a “showstopper” of “cumin tofu — crisp soy cubes coated with a velvety spice mixture — that can make your eyes fly open.”

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