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Top sushi restaurants

Not long ago, I faced a great challenge: How could I open my mouth wide enough to fit in a maki roll so big, so intimidating that it threatened to eat me first? I was on a quest to find Long Island's best sushi, and this surely wasn't it. Nor was the dull, icy-raw sashimi that accompanied it.

But my search for sushi excellence did have its rewards. Given all the overwrought careless stuff out there, greatness isn't hard to recognize. It announces itself at the first voluptuous bite. So here, in alphabetical order, are my picks for the top sushi restaurants on Long Island.

--JOAN REMINICK