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Los Andes: Peruvian find in Deer Park

At Los Andes in Deer Park, an appetizer

At Los Andes in Deer Park, an appetizer of ceviche de pescado (marinated raw fish) is $12.50. (Jly 18, 2012) Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

On a quest for big flavors at small prices, a friend and I ended up at Los Andes, a Peruvian restaurant in Deer Park. The place isn’t fancy, its tables laid out at random intervals, a big empty space in the middle of the room. Yet there was nothing random about the food, clearly prepared with great care.

To start, we shared — but could not finish — ceviche de pescado ($12.50), generous cuts of white fish “cooked” by its citrus marinade. The dish was enough to feed four and proved quite hearty, surprisingly hard to stop eating. The “combo Los Andes,“ a family-style steal at $23.99, featured a whole cut-up rotisserie chicken with an avocado salad plus fries topped with sliced Peruvian hot dogs. A pitcher of chicha morada, a beverage made from purple corn, accompanied. It's a drink that will appeal mainly to those who favor the very sweet and clove-y.

We managed to polish off half the well-burnished chicken, whose nuanced and savory marinade penetrated every fiber of meat. The fries weren’t bad, but the curiously soft slices of hot dog tasted more like bologna.

We departed with leftovers enough to feed two more people.

Los Andes Restaurant is at 1844 Deer Park Ave., Deer Park, 631-392-1555.

Above: The ceviche de pescado at Los Andes Restaurant in Deer Park

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