THE FOLLOWING REVIEW WAS DONE IN JANUARY 2011. A NEW CHEF JOINED THE OPERATION IN FALL 2011. IT WILL BE RE-REVIEWED IN THE FUTURE.
"Famous since 1905," Louie's is very good since 2010.
The waterside restaurant has undergone many changes over the decades. But the boldest and best started under new management during the past eight years. And the October arrival of executive chef Ron Gelish, formerly of Mac's in Huntington, has improved the eatery even more.
In addition to the kitchen, the decor and the service at Louie's are markedly better. From the exposed brickwork, columns and high tin ceiling to the newfound style and classic view, Louie's has become a handsome destination - more like what you always wanted it to be. And when winter departs, know that the alfresco dining is delightful.
Louie's began as Louis Zwerlein's "Kare Killer," on a barge in the bay, reachable only by boat. It landed on Main Street in the 1930s and expanded in 1954. Countless lobsters later, Louie's at last is recommended for seafood to match its pretty perch on ManhassetBay.
The raw bar stands out with fresh oysters and clams on the half-shell. The shrimp cocktail also is good; likewise, the sashimi, typically fluke or tuna. Try the New England clam chowder; or a special of either sweet corn-and-crab chowder or Asian beef broth with vegetables, spurred by ginger. They're very satisfying. Prosciutto-wrapped roast halibut; seared yellowfin tuna; tender, seared diver scallops; and crisp fish-and-chips are ideal. And Louie's prepares a moist, buttery steamed lobster. Gelish, a steakhouse veteran, also excels with a juicy, dry-aged sirloin; center-cut filet mignon; and marinated, grilled skirt steak. Finish with the house's cheesecake or the upside-down apple tart.
Overdone seafood stew; a lobster bake that sometimes has an overcooked supporting cast; respectable linguine with white clam sauce, clams oreganata and fried calamari.
THE BOTTOM LINE