If the summer belongs to the Hamptons, then autumn surely is the North Fork's season. The farm stands are starting to fill up, the vineyards are ripe. Harvest it.
Luce & Hawkins, the main restaurant in Jamesport's Jedediah Hawkins Inn, definitely is one of the handsomest spots in the region. Chef Keith Luce turned it into a dining destination in 2010.
These days, L&H continues to attract for its very hands-on style. They churn their own butter here. The garden is bountiful. The theme is land-to-table, stressing the local angle. Luce uses it all.
But the restaurant isn't as vivid as it was when it opened. You do have to order a bit more carefully. So, try the crunchily coated shrimp-and-lobster meatballs and the spicy "nofo" duck wings, two excellent appetizers.
Skip the pasty tagliatelle with a trace of cauliflower, roasted tomatoes and capers. The sausage pierogi are on the weighty side, but they're flavorful, with sweet-onion marmalade. Spice doughnuts with maple ice cream; and chocolate mousse are reliable finales.
The Italianate-Victorian building still is a beauty, but that fountain in the front seems more a fussy distraction that a complement.
Luce & Hawkins, 400 S. Jamesport Ave., Jamesport; 631-722-2901.
Photo: Sausage pierogi.