Good Afternoon
Good Afternoon

Luce & Hawkins in Jamesport: A fall fair

Sausage pierogi at Luce & Hawkins in Jamesport.

Sausage pierogi at Luce & Hawkins in Jamesport. (October 2012) Credit: Newsday / Peter Gianotti

If the summer belongs to the Hamptons, then autumn surely is the North Fork's season. The farm stands are starting to fill up, the vineyards are ripe. Harvest it.

Luce & Hawkins, the main restaurant in Jamesport's Jedediah Hawkins Inn, definitely is one of the handsomest spots in the region. Chef Keith Luce turned it into a dining destination in 2010.

These days, L&H continues to attract for its very hands-on style. They churn their own butter here. The garden is bountiful. The theme is land-to-table, stressing the local angle. Luce uses it all.

But the restaurant isn't as vivid as it was when it opened. You do have to order a bit more carefully. So, try the crunchily coated shrimp-and-lobster meatballs and the spicy "nofo" duck wings, two excellent appetizers.

Skip the pasty tagliatelle with a trace of cauliflower, roasted tomatoes and capers. The sausage pierogi are on the weighty side, but they're flavorful, with sweet-onion marmalade. Spice doughnuts with maple ice cream; and chocolate mousse are reliable finales.

The Italianate-Victorian building still is a beauty, but that fountain in the front seems more a fussy distraction that a complement.

Luce & Hawkins, 400 S. Jamesport Ave., Jamesport; 631-722-2901.

Photo: Sausage pierogi.

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