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Lunch truck in Melville: Indian cuisine

Tandoori Truck in Melville

Tandoori Truck in Melville Credit: Joan Reminick

What’s orange and white and currying favor with weekday workers along Melville’s busiest industrial corridor? It’s the new Tandoori Truck, parked just south of Costco on the northbound side of Route 110 in Melville.

Steering the enterprise is a familiar name: Chani Singh. You may remember Singh as the force behind the former Chani’s Unique Indian Restaurant in Islip, Sen Spice in Sag Harbor and Curry Club in East Setauket. Now, Singh offers a full restaurant-style menu from the truck, which is equipped with two clay tandoor ovens.

I stopped by and picked up a whole tandoori chicken ($14.99), appropriately crimson and full of flavor, if a bit short on juices. Truly dry was the biryani with chicken, a rice dish made with raisins and nuts ($9.99). Onion kulcha ($3.99), a tandoor-baked bread stuffed with spiced onions, had overtones of cinnamon, which made it oddly dessert-like. But yellow dal ($9.99), a vegetarian dish of yellow lentils cooked with chilies, tomatoes and spice, was bright and nuanced — an unqualified hit.

You can sample the food Singh offers (the truck may also be hired out for catered events) at a nightly dinner buffet at the Tandoori Truck Catering Company commissary, located at 96 W. Old Country Rd. in Hicksville.

Find the Tandoori Truck from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. on Route 110, south of Ruland Road and north of Smith Street in Melville. To place an order in advance, call 516-939-2222.

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