Mac's opened with a sizzle in 2005. It has been retooled a few times since then. And, with the arrivals of splashy newcomers in the last few years, the downtown Huntington restaurant has been cooking under the radar.
But this was and is a very good restaurant, for seafood as well as steak. It's also one of the more pleasant beef emporiums on Long Island, with friendly and accommodating service. The appointments still have a clubby style, with enough beefy imagery to ensure that you don't forget the house's specialties.
Among them: a fine bone-in New York strip steak, dry-aged 60 days, another dry-aged 30 days, and the porterhouse for two or more. There's competition from a pork chop “porterhouse,” too. The seafood selections include a thick cut of swordfish, finished with chipotle lime butter or paired with crab-packed artichokes. “Mac's Oysters” also are recommended: a tasty play on the Rockefeller theme.
You'll find the requisite shellfish cocktails and assorted salads, plus the familiar side dishes. There also are a couple of surprises, including savory rum-baked sweet plantains; “Mac's pan potato,” a first-rate potato pancake; and mushroom risotto.
But cheesecake, here an upside-down caramel production, tweaks tradition and keeps to it, too.
Mac's, 12 Gerard St., Huntington; 631-549-5300.
Dry-aged sirloin (and potato pancake) at Mac's.