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Macadoo's Grille

Pulled chicken sandwich with corn at Macadoo's Grille,

Pulled chicken sandwich with corn at Macadoo's Grille, Northport Credit: Newsday/Joan Reminick

Primo pulled chicken and freshly fried potato chips are just two reasons to head over to Macadoo's Grille, the offshoot of the adjacent Batata Café.

In a rustic space outfitted with booths and tables, chef-owner Nicole Nappy-Offermann puts out a counter-service menu inspired by the backyard grill.

Forget the notion of appetizer and main course; food comes when it's ready.

MACADO'S AND DON'TS

The crisp, irresistible potato chips are a must-order. So, too, pulled chicken, a dish I've rarely considered worthwhile. Here, it tastes freshly pulled from the bone, carefully moistened with a barbecue sauce that's not too sweet. Get it on a platter (paired with andouille sausage and grilled onions), on a sandwich and, also, as part of a successful slider plate. Alongside: a fine pulled pork slider and a roseate, juicy mini-burger.

But I'm at a loss to fathom why a full-sized burger (topped with American cheese and potato chips) shows up shriveled almost to the size of a silver dollar. And I'm flummoxed by a dry, overcooked turkey burger.

Good thing that my dining companion lets me plunder from his juicy, lightly sauced brisket on a roll. Wings (ordered with BBQ sauce) are meaty and just saucy enough. The half rack of ribs is not slow-smoked, but good, nonetheless. Baked chicken with BBQ sauce tastes reheated, so overdone that dark meat is indistinguishable from white.

I turn, for comfort, to a big bowl of creamy, al dente mac and cheese that proves addictive. An oversized side of baked beans is good, if a bit sweet. And mashed potatoes are just right.

For the components of a brownie sundae, the young woman behind the counter dashes into Batata Café, returning with a fudgy brownie topped with ice cream and hot fudge; too bad it's crowned with aerosol whipped cream.

BOTTOM LINE

Order selectively and you'll eat well while stretching those dollars.

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