In 1967, 11 years after they emigrated from Italy, Carmela and Genaro Sbarro opened their first mall-based pizzeria. There are now more than 1,000 Sbarro's all over the United States and in 47 countries. Eight years ago, the Melville-based company launched a much smaller-scale concept, Mama Sbarro's, which, according to Sbarro's director of Long Island operations, Rose Sidoti, "offers four distinct services - in-house dining, pizza, catering, and carryout and delivery service." The recipes are based on the ones Carmela brought from Naples and everything is made in house and from scratch. No big surprises here, but Mama Sbarro does a good job with classics such as chicken Francese. Rigatoni alla Mama is a huge portion of pasta with sausage and mushrooms topped with mozzarella. We also enjoyed a special gemelli with well-cooked shrimp and spinach.