It’s never much of a surprise when a Peruvian restaurant turns out great rotisserie chicken. So, in that respect, a visit to the new Manka Peruvian Kitchen in Glen Cove went quite as expected.
But, wow, what an octopus salad ($16) I had. Big enough to qualify as an entree, it was fresh, colorful, filled with tender octopus pieces and rife with bursts of spice, plus an occasional sweet crunch from tiny nuggets of candied walnuts. A lively parillero tiradito ($16) featured grilled shrimp, calamari, peppers and garlic, beautifully presented.
And, then, there was that chicken. Spice-crusted and coppery, its marinade penetrated every fiber of meat. On the side: two kinds of fried plantains, the sweet and the green.
Manka Peruvian Kitchen is at 216 Glen St., Glen Cove, 516-801-1519, mankany.net.